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DAY
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COLOR
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CORRESPONDENCE
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MONDAY
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WHITE
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PURITY, TRUTH, SINCERITY
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TUESDAY
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RED
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STRENGTH, HEALTH, VIGOR, PASSION
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WEDNESDAY
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LIGHT BLUE
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TRANQUILITY, UNDERSTANDING, PATIENCE, HEALTH
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THURSDAY
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DARK BLUE
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DEPRESSION, IMPULSIVENESS, CHANGEABILITY
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FRIDAY
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GREEN
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FINANCE, FERTILITY, LUCK
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SATURDAY
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BLACK
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EVIL, LOSS, DISCORD, CONFUSION
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SUNDAY
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GOLD/YELLOW
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ATTRACTION, PERSUASION, CHARM, CONFIDENCE
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ORANGE
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ENCOURAGEMENT, ADAPTABILITY, STIMULATION, ATTRACTION
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PURPLE
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TENSION, AMBITION, BUSINESS, PROGRESS, POWER
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BROWN
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HESITATION, UNCERTAINTY, NEUTRALITY
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PINK
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HONOR, LOVE, MORALITY
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SIGN
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PRIMARY COLOR
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SECONDARY COLOR
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AQUARIUS
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BLUE
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GREEN
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PISCES
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WHITE
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GREEN
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ARIES
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WHITE
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PINK
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TAURUS
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RED
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YELLOW
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GEMINI
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RED
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BLUE
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CANCER
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GREEN
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BROWN
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LEO
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RED
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GREEN
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VIRGO
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GOLD
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BLACK
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LIBRA
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BLACK
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BLUE
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SCORPIO
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BROWN
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BLACK
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SAGITTARIUS
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GOLD
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RED
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CAPRICORN
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RED
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BROWN
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FIRE has always been a source of fascination for everyone. It has been used as a spiritual tool, a weapon... and not to
mention being used for warmth since the stoneage. The colour of a candle is believed to possess it's own vibration and therefore
is used in mediation and divination.
1. THE colour of the candle and it's vibration is activated, released and amplified when it is lit. As the candle burns,
the colour is released into the surrounding areas and affects those in this area.
2. THE colour of the candle that you use, is determined by the kind of healing needed. Consult the list on which corresponds
to different conditions given below.
3. ALL candles should be cleansed, like you clean everything that is a tool for healing, and blessed, before you use them.
Say a little prayer over the candle before you light it. This cleanses the candle of negativity. It also strengthens the colour
so that it works more effectively for the healing.
4. ONCE you have used a candle for a specific purpose, keep it for this purpose. If you have it for healing or meditation,
keep them separate. Allow it to build up the vibration that you are using if for, otherwise it will set up conflicting vibrations.
5. ANY candle will be effective. For longer, more sustained effects, church candles can be quite effective. They can burn
for a long time. Do not leave a candle unattended. Burn them in the right candle holders.
6. DO not use candles to interfere with the free will of another. The rebound effect can be very dramatic.
7. PUTTING out the candle should be the last thing after the healing has been done. When extinguishing the candle, visualise
that the healing breath is healing the area that is needed to be healed. Do not blow the candle out, get a piece of tin foil
or or cone to put out the flame.
PREPARATION OF CANDLES
TYPES OF CANDLES
VOTIVES - Short and stubby. These are usually burned in a small cup or container and used to provide a light for several
hours. They are less space consuming, so more candles can be placed on the altar at the same time.
TAPER - Long, slender and very elegant and they come in many different lengths and thicknesses. May be burned in a candle
holder and/or may be allowed to drip into a pie pan so the drippings can be read in a similar manner as teal leaf readings.
CANDLE IN A JAR - Large, long-lasting candle which is formed by pouring either colored wax into a clear glass container
or clear wax into a colored glass container. These are the safest candles to burn unattended, providing the maker of the candle
took care to ensure that the wick runs in the center of the candle. Although, you never want to just leave a burning candle
with no one around...that would be dangerous and foolish.
MALE AND FEMALE FIGURINE CANDLES - Which come in black, white, green and red. Used to bind people together or to separate
them. Burned face to face, they melt into each other to bind. Burned back to back so no wax mixes to bring about a banishment.
SEVEN DAY KNOB CANDLES - A candle which is made with seven knobs in length. One knob is burned each day for the duration
of the spell.
ALTAR CANDLES - These are usually taller and longer burning than the other candles used plus these are lit first and extinguished
last. One to the left (female energies) and one the right (male energies) represent Deities. Gold for male and silver for
female.
COLORS
THE color of the candle should reflect the planetary aspect that is assigned to the incense you are going to use.
ANOINTING THE CANDLE
THERE are two general methods which are used to anoint the candle.
A. THE first consists of starting at the middle of the candle and anointing it to the top, and then going back to the
middle you would anoint down toward the bottom. The principle behind this is that you are the center of the candle sending
your energy both upward into the spiritual planes and downward into the physical.
B. THE second method is to start at the top of the candle and draw an unbroken line down the side, under it's base and
back up the other side. When you reach the top of the candle, you turn a 1/4 turn and trace another unbroken line in the previous
manner so the candle is "tied" to your purpose.
WHEN using a candle in a jar you would anoint it by placing your moistened finger inside and rubbing clockwise, or counterclockwise
as needed...three times in a circle in three sets to make up nine.
MAKING YOUR OWN CANDLES
AN illustration of candle making ingenuity and versatility is hot yellow-orange wax poured over small ice cubes. When
the ice melts and the wax sets, it leaves cavities that look like Swiss cheese!
BASIC CANDLE MAKING REQUIREMENTS:
A place to work (it is too dangerous and messy for the kitchen)
ADEQUATE storage space for materials
A relatively cool place to put finished candles (they will sag in hot temperatures)
UTENSILS to melt and blend the waxes, molds and wax addit
CANDLE making is a highly versatile craft -- one that encompasses unlimited opportunities for creativity. Candles can
be dipped, molded, rolled, fused, layered, sculptured or any combination of processes. They may be colored (dyed, painted
or tinted) within and without; they can be scented or can have embedded materials such as beads or shells, coated or whipped
(foamed).
STARTUP supplies should include wax (sold in sheets or slabs), colors, stearic acid, temperature gauge, double broiler,
a heating medium, molds and mold accessories (wick, lead, clay, etc.).
THE candle making process is not complicated, but does require time and attention to detail for safety reasons as well
as product quality.
MELTING wax is highly volatile and can catch fire easily (this is why double broilers are used) if one isn't very careful.
In the standard molding process, raw wax is melted and brought to about 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
DURING this time, certain additives such as stearic acid, colors and scents are added. Meanwhile, the mold is cleaned
and sprayed with release (silicon). A wick inserted from the bottom and tied to a stick across the top and the hole in the
bottom sealed with clay.
NOTE that the top of the mold equates to the bottom of the candle, and vice versa! Heavy lead wires (weights) are wrapped
around the bottom of the mold.
THE mold placed in a convenient position to receive the hot wax. When the wax is ready it is slowly and carefully poured
down the side of the mold to prevent bubbles from forming. The mold is filled to the top.
THE remaining wax is kept at ready temperature and used to refill the hollow that forms as the wax shrinks, a natural
result of the cooling process.
DURING this process the mold is frequently placed in cool water to speed the cooling process (the reason for the lead
wire). If the candles meant to be hollow (like hurricane candle), the still molten center is poured back as soon as the sides
cool to the desired thickness (about 1/2 inch). When cool, the candle is removed from the mold, the wick trimmed and any final
touches made.
MOLDS can be solid plaster, metal or metal shells, or flexible plastic. The flexible plastic and metal molds are the most
popular. It is difficult to make your own molds for many projects. Most anything can be used for a mold -- from hollowed out
wet sand to paper cones.
THERE are unlimited variations that can result in strikingly different and very impressive candles.
ONE is dipping a partially formed candle into vats of different colored wax, then peeling back layers with a knife to
reveal the contrasting colors and textures.
ANOTHER is filling a cavity in damp sand with wax, which yields a candle with a sandy surface.
THE most glaring potential problem area in candle making is the danger of fire from the wax. Don't even THINK of melting
wax without a good double broiler and fire extinguisher handy.
IF the wax were to boil over, splash onto an open flame (or red heating element) a very serious fire could result. Anytime
you are melting wax, make sure it is watched CONSTANTLY and that it is not allowed to get too hot.
SAFETY tips for candle making
1. NEVER leave children alone with melting or melted wax. Because it does not boil or steam, they may not realize how
hot it is.
2. NEVER leave hot wax alone.
3. NEVER heat wax over 275° F, wax flashes from liquid to flame at 375° F.
4. NEVER let wax come in contact with flames. If you develop a wax fire, treat it as you would a grease fire. Do not throw
water on it. Use a fire extinguisher (type ABC) or if it is contained in a pan, cover with a lid, extinguish any heat source
and leave the lid in place until the area has cooled.
5. USE a temperature gauge and always know what the temperature is at all times.
6. ALWAYS use the water bath method of melting wax, never place your wax container directly on the heat source. Also,
use a wire rack to keep the wax container from resting on the bottom of the water pan. Keep a close watch on the water level,
it will evaporate quickly and must be replenished frequently. When done this way and properly supervised, you will eliminate
any flash potential.
7. DON'T pour wax down the drain, it will block them.
HERE are a few tips on some candle problems:
EXCESSIVE DRIPPING - Usually this happens when the wick is too small and cannot absorb the melting wax. Be sure the candle
is not in a draft that is blowing melted wax over the edge. Sometimes if the wick is the proper size, the wax is too soft
or has too low of a melting point for the wick to absorb the wax.
RAPID BURNING - Not enough stearic acid in the wax, and the candle has been cooled too rapidly
CAVE-INS ON THE SIDES - The candle was not pierced in the center of the cavity around the wick well, which leaves the
cavity in the middle of the candle to contract inwards.
EXCESSIVE SMOKING - When the wick is too large for the candle, the flame consumes wax faster than the wick can absorb
it.
IT is customary not to blow out magick candles. Candle snuffers are preferred to the use of wet fingertips or a plate
smashed
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